New ignitor, cleaned the flame sensor- should be good until next time! This sounds like it is a control board problem where the ignitor relay on the control board is not allowing the ignitor to glow every time. After the cleaning job, I reinstalled everything back but then the furnace and the thermostat had lost power. We have lots of furnace troubleshooting advice on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I would suggest going through the troubleshooting flow chart to see what is wrong: https://arnoldservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/furnace-troubleshooting-flow-chart.pdf We also have lots of troubleshooting questions and answers on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/furnace-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ If you have any specific questions please let me know. Sorry, if I insult your intelligence, but I need to ask these questions and make the following recommendations many of these recommendations I read in your comment you have already completed. Here are a few detailed troubleshooting guides that will help you to define the causes of problems and ways to solve them. Thanks! If your furnace is going off on limit you might have an airflow problem like a dirty filter, dirty blower, slow blower motor (might need a new capacitor) stopped up evaporator coil or too much gas pressure. He replaced the Honeywell Smart Valve and the draft inducer started working properly again. Here is a link to that page: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ I hope this helps you out. It works just like the other, which also was not … It doesn’t go on because it’s not getting a signal that the igniter is on, so I can’t tell if the solenoid is working properly, but I have a hunch that it is. I would suggest that you call a company that has a good reputation with working on and fixing LP gas furnaces. To determine if the igniter is defective, first make sure the igniter is getting voltage. If I light it manually, it runs normally until the thermostat turns it off, but of course it will later attempt to re-light and then the ignitor will fail to heat up, and it’ll shut itself down. Your furnace wiring schematic should show any fuses. I would make sure the gas valve pressure is right first. The hot surface igniter (1111701 or White Rogers 768A-2) on my Amana gas furnace will not glow. Yes, the ignitor should glow and you should be getting power to the ignitor probably 30 seconds to a minute after the draft inducer closes the pressure switch. $22 vs a $150 quote. I have no idea why they would not sell ignitors other than because they are fragile and can be broken easy and if a customer does not know how to handle an ignitor properly without touching the carbide tip then this could cause lots of warranty problems for Lowes and Home Depot. More than likely the ignitor relay on your control board is bad. The igniter is not working properly if the heat does not come on after resetting it. I measured the ohms on two new IGN00145 80 volt ignitors that I had and got 14.3 ohms on one and 15.2 ohms on the other. If you use a wet vac to clean the drain on the furnace please make sure the pressure switch is disconnected so the negative pressure from the vac does not damage the pressure switch. Below we have a picture showing a cracked ignitor. Since the ignitor will not glow this could be a safety control problem like a limit, rollout or pressure switch. Hi Mark! Your furnace uses the B1809913S that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ I would check to make sure and check to make sure all safety controls like the pressure switch, rollouts and limit as closed. Please make sure all your wire connections are good and tight, test the ignitor to make sure it is good with an ohmmeter (40 to 90 ohms), make sure your safety controls are all closed. We had an electrician who did some remodeling for us and installed a new breaker box. blower motor wheel is spotless. No blinking. What could be the problems. If the furnace has rollout switches please make sure all of these are closed. OK, I asked this question before and just thought I'd update everyone on what happened. © Copyright 2020 Hearst Communications, Inc. For a furnace equipped with a pilot light, you need to restart the pilot to engage the furnace. Steve, I believe this one has got you stumped. This is a big mystery to me. Notes: The flame establishing period is 4 seconds. I’ll also check the light to get the error code. There is no blinking diagnostics light on the circuit board. Sorry, you are having this problem in this cold, cold weather! Sorry, I am sure you know that. Our furnace went out at -31 here in Wisconsin…luckily we also have a wood stove. I am glad I had an extra ignitor and pressure switch on hand. I would make sure you are getting 24 volts through the limit, rollouts and pressure switch if you have not already tested these safety controls. Above 90 ohms the ignitor is considered bad. Double-check the furnace door to ensure it is engaged properly. All I had to do was reset the limit switch. Resetting it with the main electrical switch doesn’t get it to power the ignitor, so it’s probably not the limit switch, either. If you do not have a volt meter then I would suggest that you get one and test the ignitor to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. 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